Getting Started - Boat Sea Fishing

This guide has been created to assist those of you who are just starting out in the boat sea fishing arena.  It will hopefully enable you to make the correct choice when purchasing a rod, reel or end tackle.

These are the first 4 questions that you will need to ask yourself before considering your purchase:

• Would you consider yourself a complete novice or have you a little experience?
  
• What is your target species?  For example do you just fancy Mackerel fishing or are you after the mighty Bass?
  
• Is this likely to be a long term hobby or just something to 'Enjoy in the summer'?
  
• Have you a budget in mind?
  

Finding a suitable boat to fish from:

You can either fish from a personally owned boat, be that one you own or a friends.  The other option that is far more common and available are charter/hire boats available throughout the United Kingdom.  Check the 'boats for charter/hire' page here on The Marine Pages to view some boats in the area you wish to fish from.  Most boats allow you to charter/hire the entire boat for an hourly rate, the most popular if there is a group of friends/colleagues wanting to fish.  The daily rate is usually between £260-£360 for an eight hour day depending on if you are drifting over wrecks or anchored over rough ground, reefs or wrecks due to the difference in the amount of fuel the skipper has to use.  The cost of the boat can be divided between a group of you, most boats can comfortably take eight to ten anglers.  The other option is to book individual spaces on a charter boat and the skipper makes up the group, this usually costs between £30 - £50 per angler.

Many of the charter/hire fishing boats listed on The Marine Pages have rods/reels available to hire.  This is ideal if you are just starting out as you are provided with the opportunity to decide what type of fishing you enjoy most.  For example if you really enjoy fishing for the big species such as conger eels you are better spending your money on a heavier rod, however if you enjoy fighting bass or cod a lighter rod provides much more sport!

Choosing a fishing rod:


If you decide to buy your own tackle it is important to bear the following points in mind:

• What is your target species?
  
• How will you do most of your fishing?
  
• What is your budget?
  
• Will it be used often?
  

Depending on the species of fish you hunt, dictates the 'class' of rod you use

Why does my target species matter?

The waters around the United Kingdom are abundant with all types of species of fish.  I have personally caught conger eels, sharks (including blues, tope, smoothound), cod, bass, pollock, black bream, mackerel, skate, place and many more in between.  Although it is possible to buy a fishing rod that can ‘cope’ with all these species, you may not have as much enjoyment fighting the fish if the rod is too light or too heavy. 

A good example of this is not long ago I was fishing anchored over a wreck for conger eels, I noticed a bite on my 50lb class rod, 4/O multiplier reel with 40lb breaking strain line.  I striked the bite hard but thought I had missed it, so I proceeded to retrieve the line to re bait the hook.  As the hook got nearer to the boat I though it felt a bit ‘odd’ I then looked down and noticed that I had a stunning 6lb Bass on my hook!  The point I am trying to make is that Bass usually provide some of the best sport in boat fishing, but because of the heavy tackle I was using I didn’t even know I had it!

Rods are usually the standard length boat rod between 6-7ft, they usually carry a ‘class’ rating to provide an indication of it’s flexibility and strength thus the type of fish you want to use it for. 

My advice for when choosing a rod would be:

·         If you are on a limited budget and fancy fishing for a mixed species, go for a 30lb class rod.  It is great for all round fishing, you can catch anything with one of these and still have fun.  It is perfect for the novice whilst they gain experience in playing fish.
·         If you will predominately be fishing for bass, Pollock, cod (normal UK size), black bream, average tope and smoothound.  Buy a 12/20lb class rod.  This is what I use 90% of the time.  I have landed cod up to 28lb and tope to 35lb on mine!  They provide great sport even when fighting small codling and Pollock!
·         If you intend to mainly fish for the big boys like conger eels, skate and blue sharks.  Any rod around 50lb class will cope with ease.

There seems to be misconception among novices when looking at these 'Classes' - that the class means that the rod can only take that weight of fish - it does not!  There is nothing stopping you from using a 12/20lb class rod for fishing for Conger eels up to 50lb (You as the angler must use your skill and 'Play' the fish to ensure safe capture).
The other type of fishing rod commonly used for boat fishing is the ‘Uptide’.  These rods are usually slightly longer than the standard boat rod - 9 - 10ft is the most common length.  Uptide fishing involves using a somewhat lighter rod and anglers are required to 'Cast uptide' from the boat.  The lead anchors in the tide run and generates a bow in the line that makes the lead 'Hold' - bites are often indicated by the rod tip 'Springing up'.  This technique is good in depths of water between 5 and 80ft using lines of between 12 and 20lb breaking strain and leads of no greater than 8oz. 

As the saying goes ‘you get what you pay for’ this is particularly true with sea fishing tackle.  Your equipment will be subject to much abuse from the elements and salt water is very effective at corroding cheap and poorly coated metals.  If you plan to use your fishing tackle on a regular basis I would strongly suggest you buy a quality  brand such as Penn, Abu Garcia, Daiwa amongst others.  A useful tip is to ensure you rinse the salt water of all your fishing tackle as soon as possible after fishing, this will prolong the life of your gear GUARENTEED!

Choosing a fishing reel:

By far the most popular choice of reel for boat fishing is the ‘multiplier’.  Very few anglers choose to use a ‘fixed spool’ reel when fishing from a boat, although some people do and have shown that they can be just as productive as the ‘multiplier’.

The multiplier (pictured above) is the first choice of reel for boat anglers

How does a multiplier vary from fixed spool?   Well, with a multiplier the spool itself spins around and the line is pulled onto the spool as against the fixed spool whereby the spool is fixed and the line spins around the spool.

The advantage of the multiplier is it's ability to take on line smoothly whilst keeping the line in a straight line which in theory helps to reduce drag and therefore stress on the line.  A good multiplier has a drag system the same as a fixed spool and is available as a star type drag operated next to the wind or a lever drag, fixed to the side of the multiplier. There is also a braking system on a multiplier to control the spinning of the spool, this can be a mechanical pad system or magnetic system, the latter being preferred by most anglers.


There are a number of factors to look for in a multiplier reel such as:

·         Ball Bearings
Both fixed spool and multiplier reels run on ball bearings to provide smooth operation and longevity. The higher the number of ball bearings the smoother and longer your reel should operate.

·         Construction
This can be important if you are looking for a low maintenance reel as you will be subjecting the reel to sea water, sand, fish slime and the general abuse that reels get during to coarse of fishing. Carbon bodies offer light weight and anti-corrosion properties but these come at a price. Stainless steel also has anti-corrosion properties but at the expense of weight. Most reels will provide years of good use if looked after and once again the budget will dictate.

·         Rewind Ratio
This is the speed at which the spool rotates and therefore how much line is retrieved for every turn of the handle. If a fast retrieve rate is required such as lure fishing for Bass then a retrieve rate of 4.5:1 or higher is recommended. If however you are pirking for Cod off a wreck then you may be looking for a lower retrieve rate to allow time for the fish to follow the pirk and make it's charge. Faster is not always better but for the weekend angler I recommend a ratio of 4:1 or higher.

·         Line Capacity
Different reels are designed for different tasks. If you choose a multiplier for beachcasting then a light reel with a spool large enough to handle up to 300 yards of 15lb line is required but if pier fishing or spinning is your thing then a smaller lighter reel capable of holding 140 yards of 18lb line or less is ideal. For general use I recommend that you purchase a reel capable of holding up to 200 yards of 18lb line.

·         Drag System
This is a very important tool on any fishing reel as when set properly it allows the fish to take line at around 75% of the breaking strain from the reel without the angler needing to let line out. This is most important for hard fighting species such as Bass or Conger as they will allow you to bring them in but when they see you or your boat they usually make a dash for it and your reel will allow them to do so whilst maintaining pressure on the fish and wearing them out in the process.

·         Braking System
A braking system is a must for a multiplier reel. Without a braking system you need to rely on your thumb to control the speed of the spool and in my view the weekend angler will find this difficult. Of the two types of system the preferred method of braking is the magnetic braking system. This works through magnetic pressure, the closer the magnets the more drag and visa versa. The mechanical system involves pads, usually of cork, applying pressure to the spool drive and again the higher the pressure the slower the spool run!

A useful site for all your fishing tackle needs, as used by many fishing charter skippers

More Discount Fishing Tackle Offers from Tacklebargains

Reel Line - Braid or Mono?

Until relatively recently when people mentioned fishing line, they were only talking about monofilament or 'mono'.  The decisions the angler had to make were rather simple, what breaking strain and what brand.  Now days with the popularity of braid growing faster than the speed of light, the angler has got an abundant of choices therefore, tough decisions to make.

So, should you use braid or mono?  A question often asked!  The main differences between the two are that mono has elasticity whilst braid does not.  What does this mean for the angler?  Put simply it means that you get a better feel of what is happening at the bait end of your line, bites are more sensitive and it enables easier control of your bait ie. It is easier to tell if your bait is on the seabed as you can feel the weight/bait bouncing.  However, the downside of this is that there is no 'give' in the line so if a fish suddenly dives hard or gets back into a wreck braid may snap.  A further advantage is that the diameter of braid is much less than mono, so you can carry more on your reel and have manageable high test strain line.   One disadvantage of braid is that it is very abrasive so can cause problems over rocky ground and when fishing for fish with sandpaper like skin.

In my opinion for most fishing braid is superior to mono, the only time I use mono is when fishing for large species of fish such as conger eels due the elastically 'give' that mono has.  That said, if you are a total novice it is probably wise to start with mono as it is far more forgiving.


So hopefully you found the above information at least a little bit helpful.  My last piece of advice is if you choose to start your boat sea fishing hobby on a charter/hire boat, make sure you listen to what the skipper and crew have to say.  They always prove to be the most valuable learning tool of all!  Good luck and have fun!